RAID PYRENEES
so a little French adventure Just two days after the Anfield 100, 2 idiots (sadly our right hand woman, and overall planner Hannah Sammut was unable to join us), 2 bikes (Boris and Holla) a fair bit of luggage even though I swear we packed light and off we went.
The Plan:
Various Trains to Biarritz, on the south-west coast of France, then ride all the way across the biggie's of the Pyrenees to Perpignan. on the east coast. The route was the classic raid Pyrenees we had 3 maps, a route clearly marked out and a variety of hotels booked or sort of booked or
sort of with the intent of winging it; much to Paul Davies dismay and firm words.
Our first challenge was getting the bikes and luggage on the Metro from one Paris train station to another. This, we both agreed turned out to be a much bigger challenge than riding the 100 in the pissing rain. But we managed, with minutes to spare and very red faces. The next challenge was waiting for us in Biarritz, where we failed to check into our hotel (see Paul it doesn't pay to book ahead) due to a hotelier who didn't want us to stay as it meant letting us in so, he decided to just not answer his phone ............
..alternative accommodation was found and vodka consumed!
Day 1: dash for the coast …....but first to the post office to send our bike bags to Perpignan, the plan to avoid having to haul them across the mountains. Unlucky as we were, it was a national holiday. After parting with a considerable amount of cash in order to convince the nice lady in the hotel, to send the parcel for us the next day, FINGERS CROSSED! we departed. A flat and uneventful 82 miles on main roads later and our greeting was a well planned affair, in a town that had fully embraced the national holiday. So there was no place to eat and in fact no people to speak of. Never fear leffe and picnic tea in the hotel car park worked out just fine.
Day2, ...blinded by the unknown, we reached the mountains and started up Col de Marie Blanque a cheeky little number. On the top it was all available layers on and quickly down. Little did we know this was to be the pattern of all our summits, with the weather getting progressively worse. Next up was the Col d’Aubisque, nice climb, lots of wiggles in the road and massive bikes to greet us on the top: qué photos!
Massive bikes and the official top! |
We finished our up-hills for the day with Col de Soulan where we rewarded ourselves with crepes in the café, covering around 65 miles. By this point several sightings of a Dutch and an Italian couple both riding with even more baggage than we, had given us marginal confidence that you can go up hill with your worldly (all essential I assure you) goods attached to your backside.
Day 3 would take us over the Col de Tourmalet, the massive one, and the Col d’Aspin. Reaching the foot of the Col, after steaming past a few ‘all the gear no idea riders’, we caught up with a group of Spanish riders. Claudia’s translation of their conversations went something along the lines of, them at first laughing at us then our bags, but soon not so funny as they were rather surprised to find us riding through them, and took a picture for their club album as evidence of their humiliation (lucky for you we were in century colours bringing fame to us all).
At that point it started to rain, not too heavy, but nonetheless by the time we'd reached the top we were soaked through and freezing. Quick pic by the summit along with the whole of cycling France and into the café for the best custard cake ever. 10 out of 10.
the top! Rain, snow and mist! |
Hannah made friends with a nice Dutch man who amongst admiring her bike, decided to inform us of just how horrific the decent was going be, meanwhile in the background Claudi had a small break down, the air turned blue and I feared for the safety of anyone French.......hilarious. So off we went....with, get this newspapers down our front yes yes yes we went trad. …....did it work NO. By this point we where shivering so much it was hard to just roll down hill together with the tidal wave caused by the extreme weather conditions...........shelter was sought and as many wet clothes where removed and replaces as possible to do the final down-hill. At the bottom immediate shelter was sought much to the dismay of the hotelier who then had 4 gallons of water on her restaurant floor when the pair of us walked in!
We had a couple of recovery coffees, and as the rain had stopped, decided to carry on. So with a gap in the weather we nailed the second Col and made it to our destination PHEW!
This turned out to be another deserted ski resort where much to Claudi's disappointment we couldn't even get “f**king pasta for tea!”
To cut a long story short: from then on, we tried to be on the road at 7.30 every morning to escape the rain (thanks to our weather frog, Paul).
Breakfast by the homeland! |
…....... but with more assurance of our abilities (not the breakfast kind, but the ride ability kind) at the end of the day we headed to the square and got stuck into the wine and chips, known locally I believe as Pommes Frittes. Day’s mileage: 81m.
Day 5 Half day today, our free styling with the accommodation had paid off.
By this point, we were surprised how few people we had come by, well today we were to meet an interesting man ...claiming to be a masseuse. Stalker in reality as not only did he invite himself to the bread and cheese breakfast on the steps outside a nice little Boulangerie in Massat, but he then drove along side us on the climb to make sure we knew he would be waiting on the top to give us some massage oils! His number and business card ....like we would phone him later that day... we did NOT! Thats Claudi's legs getting us in trouble again.
Instead we were off to the thermal baths of Ax en Thermes, sloshing about in bubbly water, then frying ourselves in the steam rooms. Finished the day on a high with a fish tank of Leffe each whilst the bar man told us this was officially the worst weather in 7 years. Strongly agree.
Large Leffe, and our hotel receptionist! |
Day 6 ...and Claudia ran a little workshop to teach Hannah how to replace brake pads. I'm not proud of the fact that I have not undertaken this chore before!.................and again we were off! Up the Col de Puymorens, all a bit much like cycling up a Motorway! Not the most enjoyable climb for this reason, but awaiting us down the other side was a croquet monsieur for Claudi and a yard of cheese baguette for Hannah. And then the rain was back ….........took action and spent half an hour hiding under a porch with no room for the Boris and Holla.
Then we decided to make a dart for the last uphill. All was well till we turned the corner to descend and we entered a visual disability. This turned into torrential rain.....once again shelter sought and many coffees drunk; Claudi spent some time with the hand dryer in the ladies toilets. What would have been the most beautiful decent of all the cols was not to be seen sadly!
visual disability approaching! |
Day 7....easy roll towards the coast, to Perpignan, the final stop; arriving by breakfast as we didn't think to break the early start habit. Our journey was complete apart from a small dash down the coast for a few beers on the beach and a swim in the sea. Unfortunately the bike bags didn't quite make it. So bed sheets where purchased, and apart from a small discussion with Euro star personnel, disguised our bikes sufficiently to get us home. Claudi still isn't keen on the French though.....that's not going to change. Hannah l'mac, does like the French.....................wine!
In summary
Cols conquered: All
Total mileage: 479
Number of flats: 0 (statistics took a turn on our return and a 9 punctures reward went to Hannah)
Major mechanicals: 0
Grams of sun cream used: 0.5 (mistaken for moisturiser)
Accidental damages:
· one run over bike computer.
· one treasured pair of flip flops saw their last day.
Missing parcels: 1
Tan lines: 0, not even a hint, not even a freckle
This trip was powered by baguette and cheese, in collaboration with Leffe...and wine.